Learn Ice Rescue!

You’re five pitches up and your rope is cut by front-points, or worse, your partner is injured by falling ice.  Have you ever wondered what you’d do in these situations?

ACMG guides provide instruction to quickly and safely handle these situations. The skills you learn in this course are fundamental for ice climbing far from help, in remote locations.

This course examines realistic scenarios so you can apply skills learned in practice. Everything from isolating a damaged rope to tandem rappelling with an injured partner.

 

Itinerary

Course location is conditions dependent (Squamish, Whistler, Pemberton, Hope) and run from 8am - 4pm. Meet your Guide your guide at 8am and plan to be back at the cars by 4pm.  

8am - 4pm

 

Pre-requisites

  • Novice ice climber

  • Basic ice anchors

  • Rapelling with back-up

 

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

 

Goals

  • Decision making: committing to a rescue, emergency plans, communication, who can help?

  • What goes in your pack? First aid kits, cell phones, knife, headlamp, etc

  • Bailing kit: extra cord, webbing, maillons, leaving gear? How do I bail? Planning descent options.

  • Escaping the belay:

    • Tying off the belay going hands-free

    • Load transfers with prusik

  • Tandem rappel with injured climber

  • Raising systems: 3:1 hauling with a prusik, 5:1 hauling.

  • Lowering systems: Munter hitch, Direct Strand Lower, lowering past knots

  • Problem-based learning is used to demonstrate rescue applications with skills.

Note: Goals are flexible and can be tailored for groups.

 

Equipment

  • Harness

  • Helmet (climbing)

  • Ice climbing boots (welts for ice climbing crampons)

  • Ice crampons

  • 6 x Ice screws

  • 1 x 22cm Ice screw

  • Ice tools

  • Guide-style belay device & locking carabiner

  • 4 x locking carabiners (pear shape)

  • 4 x carabiners (non-locking)

  • 2 x double length sling (120cm)

  • 2 x cordalette (5m x 7mm cord)

  • 1 x Sterling Hollow Block 13.5”

  • 2 x 1.5m 7mm cord

  • Abalakov V-thread tool

  • Small knife (serrated)

  • Headlamp

  • Thermos/Water bottle

  • Backpack w/ice axe holders (40L)

  • Winter clothing (click for list)

    Note: VMG supplies, ropes, anchors, ice tools, and can supply crampons (if needed).

 

Fee

$299.00 +GST (1 day)

 

Ratio

1:6 (min 3)

guide : participants

Note: private courses can be organized for 1-2 participants.

Dates

Private clinics, choose one date Dec 14 - Mar 15 (minimum 3)

 

Questions?

 

Ice climb with safety and confidence!

Learn ice rescue with professional ACMG Guides. Having skills to conduct a self-rescue while ice climbing in remote locations is a fundamental criteria.