Mixed Climbing!
Learn how to use your ice tools and crampons on mixed routes with rock and ice. This course is designed for ice climbers that want to progress to the next level.
Partially formed ice routes and high alpine peaks are climbed with metal picks and crampon points on rock and ice. This is mixed climbing, a culmination of several disciplines, and perhaps the last tool in your toolbox.
You will spend 2 days climbing with your guide in the area surrounding Lillooet, BC. This region has reliable ice and fun, sporty mixed climbs with short approaches.
Itinerary
Evening Before:
Meet in Lillooet 9pm at the hotel. Review equipment check crampon fit. Discuss location details and directions for day 1.
Day 1:
Meet at Abundance Bakery at 7:30am. Drive to the climbing location and climb 9am-5pm (or later). Return to Lillooet for dinner and debrief.
Day 2:
Meet at Abundance Bakery at 7:30am. Drive to another climbing location and climb 9am-5pm. Return home.
Pre-requisites
Top-rope ice climb WI4.
Can belay and tie a figure-8 knot.
Hiking 30mins uphill with a backpack.
Waiver
You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.
Goals
Day 1
Ice hazards, mitigating risk, avoiding falling ice, where is it safe to stand.
Ice climbing and avalanche awareness:
Avalanche forecasts
Weather, winds, precipitation
Ascent, descent plans
Avi Gear, where to leave gear
Review ice climbing technique:
kicking and standing on front points
swinging the ice axe
squat, stand, swing
Using the pick: torquing, stein pulls, underclings, and figure-4’s.
Movement over mixed terrain. Top roping mixed climbs.
Day 2
Practice moving over mixed terrain. Traversing, matching, getting high on tools.
Strategies to avoid fatigue, what to do if you get pumped - shaking out.
Prepping the climb to remove dangerous ice.
Strategies to climb thin ice. Not swinging. Scratching pick holes, matching front points.
Top roping different mixed climbs
Ratio
4:1 (min 2)
participants : guide
Note: private courses and guided climbs can be organized for 1-2 participants or groups up to 6.
Fee
$799 +GST (2 days)
Dates
Private clinics, choose one date, Dec 14 - Mar 15 (minimum 2)
Equipment
Harness
Helmet (climbing)
Ice climbing boots (welts for ice climbing crampons)
Ice crampons
Ice tools
Belay device and locking carabiner
2 x Locking carabiners (D-shape)
1 x Double length sling (120cm)
1 x Cordalette (5m x 7mm cord)
Headlamp
Thermos/Water bottle
Backpack w/ice axe holders (40L)
Winter clothing (click for list)
