Lead Climb Ice!

Leading ice is an advanced skill best learned from an experienced guide. This is the perfect course if you have top roped on ice or completed our Level 1 Ice and are ready to take the next step. Register together with Level 1 Ice and receive 10% off.

Start slowly by reviewing efficient ice climbing techniques on top rope. Next, learn to place screws on the ground and then practice placing them on lead with a top rope. From this step, progress to mock leads with a top rope to build proficiency.

Ice climbing locations are determined based on the local conditions. We use areas in the Sea To Sky corridor, along the Duffy Hwy up to Lillooet, and in the Fraser Valley near Hope, BC.

 

Itinerary

Evening Before:

Meet at the hotel (location tbd). Review equipment check crampon fit. Discuss location details and directions for day 1.

Day 1:

Meet at a coffee shop 7:30am. Drive to the climbing location and climb 9am-5pm (or later). Return to town for dinner and debrief.

Day 2:

Meet at a coffee shop 7:30am. Drive to another location and climb 9am-5pm. Return home.

 

Pre-requisites

  • Top rope ice climb WI3

  • Experience lead sport climbing.

  • Hiking 30mins uphill with a backpack.

 

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Goals

Day 1

  • Ice hazards, mitigating risk, avoiding falling ice, where is it safe to stand.

  • Ice climbing and avalanche awareness, spin drift, and sluffs.

  • Reveiw ice climbing technique:

    • kicking and standing on front points

    • swinging the ice axe

    • squat, stand, swing

  • Two rope strategies vs a single rope, dry ropes vs non-dry.

  • Place ice screws correctly, ice screw angle, how to place screws on lead.

  • Lead climbing strategies, length of screws, how many to place.

 

Day 2

  • Practicing ice climbing, efficient technique, matching tools, using natural ice features.

  • Strategies to avoid fatigue, what to do if you get pumped.

  • Mock leads with coaching, and a top-rope for safety

  • Placing ice screws and building top rope anchors.

  • V-threads and rappelling on ice, french prussik for a back-up.

Optional: spend 2 days climbing and exploring different routes - no lead climbing.

 

Ratio

6:1  (min 3)

participants : guide

Note: private courses and guided climbs can be organized for 1-2 participants or groups up to 6.

 

Questions?

Fee

$699 +GST (2 days)

 

Dates

Dec 28-29 Jan 18-19
Feb 16-17 Mar 8-9

 

Equipment

  • Harness

  • Helmet (climbing)

  • Mountaineering boots (welts for ice climbing crampons)

  • Ice crampons

  • Ice tools

  • 8 x ice screws (13-19cm)

  • Belay device and locking carabiner

  • 2 x Locking carabiners (D-shape)

  • 1 x Double length sling (120cm)

  • 1 x Cordalette (5m x 7mm cord)

  • Headlamp

  • Thermos/Water bottle

  • Backpack w/ice axe holders (40L)

  • Winter clothing (click for list)

Note: VMG can supply some of the equipment if you do not own it all.

 
 

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